Cairo Hustle

As all can tell from the pictures, last Saturday we decided to go to the Pyramids. They're definitely awe-inspiring, and I was able to climb to the top of the largest one to see where the Pharaoh was entombed. No cameras were allowed, but the guy at the top did say we could take pictures with cell phones. There seems to be a disconnect when it comes to official Pyramid policy. No surprises there. Why?

Simple answer: backsheesh. The is what Eric (another Fulbright ETA) has termed the "Cairo hustle." Millions of Egyptians live on less than $2 a day--a difficult situation for anyone, let alone those trying to feed a family. As a result, many people depend on "backsheesh," or tipping. Usually it's only a couple pounds here and there, but it adds up after a while. There are pros: We were able to get get the student price for tickets to the Pyramids by paying  a guy to get our tickets for us. Still saved money, but it shows the underground economy. Then we had to "tip" the big-man at the security checkpoint who questioned our student tickets. After some haggling he let us in for a cool 15 pounds. To be honest, I'm not even sure he worked for the government or had any real affiliation with the Pyramids other than positioning himself by the door. 

The "hustle" continues. A man approached Eric and I with kufiyahs (male head covering) in hand. I waved him off, as I didn't want to buy one. He looked at me and then stated "No money. For Ramadan." So I thought he was being nice. He opened the package and wrapped it around my head. He did the same for Eric. He then offered to take our picture. Still no talk of money. When he got down off the Pyramids, he suddenly became less charitable and began the backsheesh process. I eventually gave him an American dollar, and Eric gave him a few pounds. He wanted more--in fact he requested "paper money." After getting no where in 100 degree heat, we pulled off the kufiyahs and walked away. There's no free lunch.

And to return to the policy [in]coordination amongst Pyramid workers: The man at the top of the Pyramid, who has the delightful job of being stuck in a less-than-ventilated, musty hole (did I mention the lack of light?) has to make a living too. Allowing pictures means a little extra backsheesh for him, which he certainly asked. We didn't take pictures, but we did tip. 

It's all a part of the game. Play on, playas.

P.S. The guys monitoring the entrance to the Pyramid also skirted the rules. The normal price (for non-Arabs) is 100 pounds (about 20 USD). They charged 200 pounds to people who happened to walk up and inquire as to how to get in. There needs to be a discussion with them about supply, demand, and pricing, but the point is that no matter where you turn, someone's looking for a little extra. But you gotta do what you gotta do to put food on the table. Welcome to "This Egyptian Life."